24 Hours Glorious Hours in St. Andrews
Old TamApr 17, 2025
LD TAM LINKS GOLF
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Courses Reviewed in this Blog: Machrihanish Golf Club, Machrihanish Dunes, Dunaverty
I have visited the Kintyre Province twice now. The first time I flew down from Glasgow with The Hebrides Squad. The most recent trip, we made it the first leg of a two-and-a-half-week trip as we landed in Glasgow and took a taxi/van for the 3-hour toboggan run down the Long and Winding Road—made famous in Paul McCartney’s song--to the southwest end and The Village of Machrihanish.
Kintyre is a peninsula, connected to the mainland at one point on the north end by a causeway over West Loch Tarbert. Geographically, it resembles the nearby islands of Islay to the west and Arran to the east. But to me, it really feels like an Island.
That is because it checks off my three key characteristics: wind, dramatic sunsets, and warm water and air due to the Gulf Stream effect in the Atlantic. As a result, golfers and beachgoers alike are drawn to the area even though it is not easy to get to, and you need to make a special effort to do so. This might explain why, when we mentioned our visit to several caddies from various parts of Scotland, they all knew of Machrihanish but none had been there. Not yet anyway.
The Village of Machrihanish does indeed have an island vibe, and its people are on island time. Not in the Caribbean or Hawaiian sense of the phrase, but rather they are happy where they are and proud of what they do. Whether it be fishing, farming, making whisky, shop tending, bartending running a quaint inn near the Atlantic, or running a golf course. They grew up there and stayed there like their parents before them. Oh, and yes, they are not in a hurry, they do not have a reason to be.
Every time I reminisce, I have a warm feeling all the way down to my soul, and a big, broad smile comes to my face. To borrow a phrase from Dr. Alistair MacKenzie as he was describing a links course, to me it brings “pleasurable excitement.” To echo Billy Joel's 1975 song "New York State of Mind," Machrihanish embodies a state of mind. As the song goes:
I've seen all the movie stars
In their fancy cars and their limousines
Been high in the Rockies under the evergreens
But I know what I'm needing
And I don't want to waste more time
I'm in a Machrihanish state of mind
On this trip to Kintyre, Scooter and I would be in Scotland for two weeks, playing twelve courses in four distinct areas of the country.I can confidently say that Machrihanish stood out as our favorite area. In a close second, was Dornoch. I cannot wait for a return trip to both.
Machrihanish could be treated as a golf vacation in and of itself. Make a week out of it by adding in a couple days and ferry rides over to Arran to play Shishkine, and Islay for a round at The Machrie—but don’t forget a half-day of whisky tasting at Bowmore (my favorite), Lagavulin and Ardbeg. Or not! I would be thrilled to play Machrihanish GC and the newest Machrihanish Dunes two or three times each with Dunaverty added in for a change of pace.
Machrihanish Golf Club:
Our good friend Woody (who tragically passed way too early in his 50’s) would tell me as we walked the fairways of the Scarlett course at Ohio State University in Columbus as teenagers,
“Red, there are two courses that we need to play when we go to Scotland: Machrihanish Golf Club, way South in Kintyre and Cruden Bay, to the north” Of course, they were both designed by Old Tom Morris.
Originally known as The Kintyre Club, The Machrihanish Golf Club was formed in 1876 when a small group of individuals met in the Argyll Arms Hotel in Campbeltown to form a club to play golf at Machrihanish. The Machrihanish Ladies Golf Club was formed in 1890 and at first, played on its own 9-hole course (now The Pans lies to the right of the 1st and 17th/18th fairways along the road).
The initial layout was just ten holes, played according to the rules laid out by The Prestwick Golf Club. Prestwick’s professional at the time, Charles Hunter, redesigned the layout, extending it to twelve holes.
In 1879, Old Tom Morris further extended the course to eighteen holes. This is when the first tee, known as the greatest opening hole in golf, moved to its current location--what a great move that was. Just like almost all Old Tom’s courses, subsequent changes were made in 1914 by JH Taylor, and then shortly after WWII by Sir Guy Campbell.
Machrihanish Golf Club is one of the most natural links courses you will ever walk. It looks now, as if the fairways were when Old Tom Morris first found them and marked the green complexes with bird feathers. A great routing through beautiful dunes, with gentle, varying, undulating, fast and easy to read greens. It seems to me that he followed his “path of least resistance” strategy and simply found the green complexes and routed the fairways through and around the dunes. I could say that about Askernish and Cruden Bay as well, same strategy, God created it, just stay out of his way!
It is just a sheer joy to play. It has fabulous sea views, undulating rippling fairways and beautiful rugged dunes. I remember having a grin on my face on every hole. It is magical, beautiful, romantic, calm, relaxing, and an easy walk. It meets and exceeds my favorite litmus test: If you only had one course to play the rest of your life, would this be the one?
It is not a long championship course, at 6,300 yards and that might be why I like it so much. I can still “bunt” my drives 240 yards give or take, and straight down the middle, but I really enjoy being able to have nothing more than a wedge to 5-Iron into most greens.
The 1st (called Battery) is 423 yards and a gut wrencher of a drive over the beach to a fairway that almost is a diagonal from the tee. Your first key decision, how aggressive an angle should I a take to the left? Should I be a hero, or play safe and have 180 yards to the green? After all, the beach is in play, not a hazard.
Number 2 (Machrihanish) is a wonderful, fun hole to play. A par four with a straightforward drive of no more than 250 yards to stay just short of the burn. Then, an uphill blind approach to a semi-punchbowl green that lies about 30-yards past the crest of the hill—with two pot bunkers protecting the left side. It holds a special place in my golfing heart as I birdied it the first time I played it.
The stretch of holes from 2 through 5 are one of my favorites in all of golf (along with 12 – 16 at Pine Valley, and 12-16 at The Golf Club in Columbus, OH). The 3rd (Islay) at 360 yards is a blind tee shot, then downhill to a 50-yard deep, kidney-shaped green with a great view of Islay in the background. Then, a wonderful Postage Stamp-like par-3 at #4, that is downhill to a small target with Jura to the left. Number 5 (Punch Bowl) is my favorite. At a mere 388 from the tips, you thread your drive into a valley of undulating fairway, then over and around a towering dune on the right side fifty yards out from a (true) punch bowl green.
The front nine is by far the best stretch on the course, as many people complain that Machrihanish GC starts with a bang, and finishes with a whimper, with 17 & 18 being very weak, non-descript holes. It is hard to second-guess Old Tom that designed it 147 years ago, but if he could’ve only stretched out 2 more holes along the beach to the North, what could have been? I still love it!
The other unique part about the links is that the par-35 front 9 has 1 par 3 and no par 5’s. The back-9 makes up for it with two par-5’s. number 10, Cnocmoy is a wonderful, strategic hole, that doglegs left, then slightly back right on the approach. It is all about getting your drive down the right side so you don’t have a blind 2nd over or around a high dune—somewhat the inverse of #5. The second par five, #12, called Long Hole is equally as strategic, but as straight as a bowling alley.
Thirteen through sixteen are all good, solid links holes, two par 4’s followed by 2 par-3’s, the last of which, number 16 is a burley 220 yards from the up tees, with wicked pot bunkers on the right. Old Tom put together a solid set of 4 par 3’s, just as he did at Cruden Bay. The three par-3 set on the back nine was reminiscent of Doak’s back nine at Pacific Dunes with four in total.
It could certainly just as easily be coincidence, but Old Tom’s focus was like a modern Tom Doak design where hhe had no pre-conceived notion of what total par and mix of holes should be, rather, find and route the best holes the land gives you. Then again, they couldn’t really move that much earth back in the late 1800s 😊.
Machrihanish GC quickly became an instant favorite of mine. I could not wait to get back out and play it again. I was in--as I mentioned at the outset of this article Machrihanish State of Mind. I have had that feeling quite a few times, all at Links courses, with the exception being The Golf Club in Columbus, Ohio. The others: Brora, Royal Dornoch, Royal Troon, Western Gailes, and Cruden Bay. I hope to have that feeling again and find a few more that make me feel that way.
As it appears, from my other experiences--and more importantly, from the tools he had in his bag of the late 1800’s—that Old Tom followed the path of least resistance. It certainly did not hurt that he worked with so many great landscapes--or canvases—that any modern architect would salivate over.
There are many great 19th holes in golf. The outside veranda at Shinnecock. NGLA in the locker room. The Golf Club’s locker room/library/bar. Pine Valley with the history and enclosed cases of hickories, or Royal Troon’s ambiance in the Member’s Bar. Everyone has their favorite.
Machrihanish GC has become one of mine, simply because of the ambiance. It is on the second story of the new clubhouse. It looks down on its own panoramic amphitheater and that is what makes it so unique. The view is dreamlike out to the practice green and pro shop to the beach and Atlantic beyond. The conversations are lively, and the food and drink are equal to any others.
I still remember our vision of a father pushing a baby carriage on a bright, breezy late August afternoon while carrying a golf bag over his right shoulder. He was headed out to the Pans Course with his infant for 9 holes before dinner and knocked it out of the park from a multi-tasking standpoint. Priceless.
Machrihanish Dunes:
Our good friend WillieB’s comment over lunch in the Members’ dining room at Royal Troon said it all.
“My friends that have played there say that the greens are like Salvador Dali on acid!”
We didn’t have a chance to play the David McLay Kidd design on my first trip to Kintyre, and I was chomping at the bit. It is the most recent Links course to be designed and opened in Scotland, opened in 2009, the previous being Kyle Phillips’ Kingsbarns 9-years prior.
The site—where DMK’s family would summer when he was a kid, had the highest level of environmental protection as it was deemed a site of special scientific interest--SSSI. The support of the Scottish Natural Heritage was integral in the process and endorsed Kidd’s wonderful design.
We were greeted by a smiling, friendly pro-shop attendant that seemed like she could’ve been equally comfortable making us mid-Sunday morning breakfast of biscuits and eggs. We checked in and she arranged a caddie who was required to drive the buggy for Sam as his recently operated-on knee probably couldn’t survive the 7,100 yards and difficult walk over and through the dunes.
Gus was a local and had played the course many times. That would come in handy, not only on the greens, but he gave us some good lines off the tee to navigate some of the blind shots and rolling fairways, typical of many links courses.
They had the only driving range between the 3 courses in Kintyre and it was a welcome sight as Scooter and I not only didn’t have our own clubs yet, but felt like we hadn’t swung one in weeks!
My first impression was that the dunes were incredible and higher than most in Scotland (except for Askernish and Cruden Bay). Raw and rugged, with undulating fairways. It was beautiful and truly was designed by the almighty himself. It is a much-overused term, but Mach Dunes truly is natural. It looks like McLay Kidd didn’t move an inch of sand, simply found 18 green complexes and tee boxes and routed the holes. None of the grasses were or could be altered.
His green complexes were very undulating—per WillieB’s comment--and appeared to have quite a few buried Volkswagen buses beneath them. He shares Tom Doak’s ideas and strategies in that regard. They reminded me a little bit of the greens at Lost Dunes, one of Doak’s designs off Lake Michigan. Once I played Lost Dunes three or four times, I loved them, and I’m sure that will be the case at Machrihanish Dunes. As we approached the green on Ugadale, I swore that I had a vision of Salvador, on top of a dune, looking down at us, curling his mustache.
A top the tee on Fingal’s Footprint
My favorite run of holes was 4, 5 & 6. Number 4, is a short two-Shotter at less than 300 yards (called Shepherds Cross), followed by 2 par 3’s, Ugadale out to the Atlantic with our Inn in the background, and Fingal’s Footprint—which combined with the Postage Stamp at Troon, were the best par 3’s of the trip. Fingal’s reminded me a lot of Doak’s par 3 #11 at Pacific Dunes in Bandon—both along the Ocean/Sea, with elevated tees and short carries with lots and lots of trouble surrounding all angles.
Number nine took us back to the clubhouse. We rounded the turn and headed to the back, match all square. Number ten, dubbed Hang Ten, was a beautiful par four that from the tee had a magnificent view of the surf beyond the green. It conjured up visions of Frankie, Annette and Moon Doggie hopping out of their Woodie, donning wetsuits, and catching a few waves.
As we came over the hill looking down at the green complex, we were greeted by three border collies that took a break from lollygagging in the dunes to pay us a visit. I tried to talk one of them into reading a few putts for me, but I did not carry his currency.
The Lads went one up on us after we had a bogey on the tenth, then two-up after the thirteenth—Black Sheep. Sam kept up the comedy, telling Nico on the tee “you might want to take the silencer off before you hit it, Nico.”
Then again on the 14th, “Nico, did I ever tell you that you look like Bryson DeChambeau in that Tam O’ Shanter?”
“Why, is it because I’m on the spectrum?”
Scooter and I both hit great shots into the green on the fourteenth, Rifle Range, a short 300-yard par four, with a roller-coaster fairway. As we approached the green, we saw Gus and Sam off to the left and ten yards short. 80 feet from the pin.
“What should I do here? Sam asked.
“Punch a wedge low, with two skips and then check it up for a short roll to the pin,” answered Gus without hesitation.
Sam attempted and left it about 25 feet short. Gus then took his club, dropped a ball, took one practice stroke, and said, “Watch this.”
He proceeded to punch it low, and it indeed had two skips and rolled out to kick-in range.
“Like that!” Gus grinned.
Scooter went first, stepped up and confidently drained a 20-footer for bird, the only one between the four of us all day. We were in their heads, and we would take the lead on the beautiful par-five sixteenth, Beinn an Oir. It was the number one handicap hole and a nice par-five. We had a gallery off the tee, up on the dune that separated the fairway from the beach and Atlantic. Two old Scotsmen, sitting on their own chairs, enjoying a wee dram. Their black lab and retriever by their sides. I could see Scooter and I doing that somewhere in Scotland or Ireland for an entire season. Of course, we would have to have a doog (as Scooter calls them). We could name them Chip or Putt, or maybe even Clancy
Nico found a good luck charm off the seventeenth tee, the hole called Rest and Be Thankful (just like Dunaverty) a seagull feather that slid between his left ear and cap. It would bring them luck, and they would take that hole to even-up the match.
As we walked off the eighteenth, all tied, Nico spun to me and said,
“How are we going to settle this, Red? How about over there,” as he pointed to the practice green.
“I think we push it to tomorrow at Dunaverty,” I said, “it is only fitting that we stretch it out another eighteen.” Everyone agreed, and we settled into a picnic table outside the clubhouse for a round of Tennents, Whisky and stories.
It was a great round of golf, the first with all four of us together in eight years, when Sam and Nico were teenagers. Gus made it fun; he is the reason why people should take caddies whenever possible—and a bit of foreshadowing for Prestwick three days later.
We had sone great banter back ‘n forth with the club pro in the clubhouse. He was out on the course with a group before we teed off. The cheerful older woman that checked us in was multi-tasking the entire time—whiskys, beers, snacks and banter. He obviously knew that we were the group that had Gus on our loop, or buggy in this case.
“How did he treat you, Lads?” he asked, with a grin.
“Well, Gus he was a blast,” I replied.
“Oh, K, well, I will tell’m that you said that he was terrible, couldn’t read any putts! Not worth a damn he is! They must have been close friends.
We spent some quality time together at the picnic table for quite a while and one round turned into two. Then there was a threesome that came in from the parking lot, and their dog Foogles in tow. A couple and their dad. Gus had told us a story earlier about a Yankee that had moved in and settled in the area a few years back. He didn’t want to raise his kids in the States, way too much gun violence.
As the story goes, he walks with three hickories, and no bag. A Driver, Mashie (7-iron) and a Niblick (wedge). That is all he needs. He putts with the Mashie turned around backwards, a la Kevin Costner in Tin Cup. How cool is that! We said hello as their dog, Foogles, came up and greeted us.
We watched eagerly as they hit off number one. It was about 70 Yards away, but we could see him clearly. He took his stance, and a la Charles Barkley hitched before the top, contorted, then did a very exaggerated thrust through the ball. He crushed it. I could not see the flight, but Sam and Nico could. It looked like a beautiful trap draw swing. He knew that the old hickories have a lot of whip to their shafts and he had mastered it.
Mr. “Only 3 Clubs”
Mach Dunes-My favorite outdoor 19th hole on the planet
https://machrihanishdunes.com/
Dunaverty
Let me start out by saying Dunaverty is a funky, short, quirky course that is not trying to be anything other than sheer fun. An enjoyable, great walk with stunning beach/ocean views and some incredibly fun holes intermixed amongst some that are flat, Muni-like, mundane and an afterthought. The term hidden gem is overused, but it certainly does apply here. I think it is the coolest, most beautiful, fun course in Scotland that most people will never see or play in their lifetimes.
Alcohol consumption is prohibited here (can you say hip flask?), a rule established years ago by the farmer who leased part of his land to the club, resulting in a few holes on the front 9 (1-4) and 17-18, with a few electric fences a la Brora in the Northern Highlands.
It sits at the very southern tip of the Kintyre Peninsula – thus the name of the small village, Southend. and is a whopping, gorgeous 4,800 yards from the tips. Pay no mind, it is equally quirky as it is delightful.
Unfortunately, on my first trip to Dunaverty (pronounced Dune aaahhh VerTee by the Scots) with the Hebrides Squad, our round was cut short by a quick rain shower followed by the revenge of the Midges attack. We were only able to play 1-5 and skipped over to 16-18 after the attack.
Turns out that we missed the best stretch of holes and views on the course, numbers 7-12. I know this might not be the correct analogy, but it is the best “Muni” that you will ever play in your lifetime with a whopping ~$30USD greens fee. If it were near New York City, golfers would line up in the parking lot at 5:00 a.m. to get in the queue for a tee time. The only difference? It has some of the best beach/ocean views in Scotland.
We arrived, paid our fees, grabbed some trollies, and hit a few putts. There was hardly anyone on the course. A beautiful, sunny Friday. Now that Scooter and I had our golf clubs and gear, I tossed Nico a sleeve of ProV1’s and he smiled like I had just given him a bottle of $1,000 Dom Perignon.
It has a very soft handshake start with non-descript holes—Strangs (a 300 yard, uphill two-Shotter), and Garrach Dhu (a slightly blind shot 150-yard par 3). Then it starts to get interesting. The 3rd tee sits above the beach with the views south to the Northern Coast of Ireland a mere 25 miles away. To the East is a beautiful view of Dunaverty Rock where Robert the Bruce hid from the Brits in the early 1300s.
Number 3 (Scott’s Holme)
On this trip, it was lookout millennials, here we come! We were headed south on the crazy, narrow toboggan-like ride that is road B-842 that takes you to Southend. We were ready to revisit our match with the Lads from the previous day. I was raving about Dunaverty to the Lads on our way and told them it would be the most unique course that they’ve ever played. Electric fences, blind-shots, punch bowl greens, gorgeous views, and breathtaking shorelines.
Number 4 Is an incredibly fun ~170-yard par 3 with an extreme punchbowl green. You simply pound a mid-iron toward the black ‘n white marker on the hill behind the green and the rim of the punchbowl takes care of the rest and guides your ball down the 25’ slope toward the hole.
We were all playing well, and as far as the match went, it was seesaw back ‘n forth for about three hours. The millennials went up on us early. Then Scooter and I tag-teamed shots, had three pars in a row, then two birdies on ten and eleven, including a chip-in off the green on eleven that Sam matched with a downhill, snaking 30-footer to tie the hole.
Holes seven through thirteen were among the most enjoyable stretches of golf holes that we played in Scotland. While they did not match Royal Troon, Cruden Bay, and Royal Dornoch in terms of design complexity and challenge, they offered very distinctive and entertaining experiences. They included the finest par 3 on the course, St. Andrews, with its tee positioned above the beach. Other notable holes were a punch bowl par 4 (Punch Bowl), an uphill par3 (#10, Mt. Zion), and two short par 4 holes, The Cleet (#11) and Brunerican (#12), that collectively totaled all of 530 yards. Scooter and I birdied both.
As we walked up to the tee at number fourteen, Rest and Be Thankful, Sam feigned passing out on the tee. All joking aside, we were mentally exhausted, and the match was also back to all-square.
Scooter and I did our best, but we ran out of gas, missed a couple greens, and our putters went cold. We would card three bogies on fourteen, sixteen and seventeen, and the Lads would take the victory, one-up after eighteen. What a great match it was, and what a wonderful round of golf. The Lads would jump back on the horse and get another 18 in at Mach GC that afternoon, while the Boomers would pour a Bowmore and take it over to the practice green across from the Ugadale for a match with our hickories in hand.
https://www.dunavertygolfclub.com/
The Ugadale Hotel—the glue that binds the Village at Machrihanish
It was in the past 2 years that a US developer, Southworth Development, came onto the scene by building Machrihanish Dunes and acquiring the heart and soul of area, The Ugadale Hotel. Thus, the Village at Machrihanish was created. With a soon-to-be built new course as well as additional accommodation, they are expanding the footprint.
There are other options—B&B’s, as well as The Royal Hotel in downtown Campbeltown near the harbor--but, if you are there for the golf, The Ugadale is necessary. On my first trip to Kintyre, my friend Paddy and I officially dubbed the picnic tables outside of the Old Clubhouse Pub at the Ugadale “The Home Office.” Tuck in with your choice, a cigar, Laptop, Cell Phone, coffee, whisky or pint and you feel right at home. It is idyllic. Gaze across to the Atlantic, Pro Shop, putting green and beyond, and all is well.
It is a friendly, quaint Inn that is modern, yet still suspended in time. They are friendly, accommodating and I feel like they really appreciate you coming for a visit.
The service is slow, and you must be patient—remember my island vibe comment from earlier—but overall, a great experience. With the new developer jumping in, that might mean more hired help in key areas.
There is both the main Inn/Hotel building with rooms, a bar and restaurant, and the 1–3-bedroom cottages as well. We stayed in a comfortable 2-bedroom with an ample kitchen/living room in the middle.
The rooms come with Breakfast in the Hotel itself, in the cozy, wood-laden Kintyre Restaurant. It hasn’t made a comeback as of yet for lunches and dinners post Covid, but it is certainly the best breakfast spot in town.
Our Thursday morning with the Lads brought a great breakfast, after the old geezers slept off the jetlag. I reunited with Sherry, our cheery yet saucy server from the previous year. She was in prime form as she greeted guests, and I saw my opening. I dared Scooter to order potatoes with his eggs, he’s always up for a challenge.
She was beaming at the chance. I teed it up and she striped it right down the middle of the fairway. She pounced on him quickly.
“Po Tay Toes!! You woont Po Taaay Toes with your Breakfast!? What is eet with ya yanks? Are you quite out of your minds?”
He had met his match.
In addition to the Kintyre Room, and the new Clubhouse, the third option is the Old Clubhouse Pub. It is a quaint, pub-like interior with a good menu—including Tennents and Guiness on tap, and many Scottish Whiskys. Typical Scottish fare, with fish and curry options. If the weather is nice out, the picnic tables are a wonderful way to while away the evening.
My recipe for Machrihanish? Some great relaxation, with as many rounds of golf at Machrihanish GC and Dunes as you feel comfortable with. Throw in one requisite late afternoon round at Dunaverty, a couple walks, and a visit to the harbor in Campbeltown and you have yourself a great trip.
--Old Tam
Travel:
With two excellent classic links courses (another to come in the next year or two) and a charming hidden gem all within 25 minutes, you cannot go wrong. Whether you take a trip to Machrihanish for a week or just visit for the minimum requisite three nights and three rounds of golf, prior to heading to your next destination. I am confident that you will experience McKenzie’s pleasurable excitement at every turn and leave with the Machrihanish State of Mind firmly cemented in your memory.
Ferry rides / https://kintyreexpress.com/ to the North Coast of Ireland
Walking Kintyre
https://machrihanishdunes.com/indulge/walking/
Whisky Tasting:
The Beaches
