Course History:

Not a lot of history here! The course opened for play in 2009. It is the most recent course to be designed/built in Scotland (the previous, Kingsbarns). It is a wonderful story of DMK designing/building a course where his family used to vacation in the summers as a child.

The Course:

My first impression was that the dunes were incredible, natural (untouched) and higher than most in Scotland--with the exception being Askernish and Cruden Bay. It is a much-overused term, but Machrihanish Dunes truly is natural. It looks like McLay Kidd did not move an inch of sand, or grass! He simply found 18 green complexes and tee boxes and routed the holes. Per the Scottish Site of Scientific Interest (SSSI) designation, none of the grasses or dunes were, or could be altered when routing/building the course.

DMK’s green complexes were very undulating—like Salvador Dali on acid--per our Scottish friend WillieB’s comment. They had quite a few buried Volkswagen buses beneath them. He shares his greens strategy with other contemporaries of modern golf course architects, Doak and Hanse. They reminded me a little bit of the greens at Lost Dunes, one of Doak’s designs off Lake Michigan. Once I played Lost Dunes three or four times, I loved them, and I am sure that will be the case at Machrihanish Dunes.

I enjoyed the stretch from holes four through six. Shephard’s Cross, #4 is a short two-shotter at 247-yards from the whites. It is a stunningly beautiful hole, with all kinds of trouble, and not a flat lie anywhere all the way to the tiny, incredibly undulating green that awaits you. Only a perfect, thread-the-needle drive could get you somewhere on or near the green. Next time I will go for it, but on this day it was a 6-iron wedge.

Number 5, Ugadale, the first of two consecutive par-3’s, had a stunning view out to Machrihanish Bay, and its namesake hotel beyond. It was ‘redan-like’ in that the green sloped top right, to lower left with a coffin bunker grabbing any shot that was not struck solid.

As we approached the green on Ugadale, I swore that I had a vision of Salvador on top of a dune on #6 tee, looking down at us, with his curled mustache.

Fingal’s Footprint, #6, at 134=yards downhill was a great short par-3, reminiscent of The Postage Stamp at Royal Troon. It reminded me a lot of Doak's #11, par-3 at Pacific Dunes in Bandon--with elevated tees, short carries, and trouble surrounding you on all sides.

Number nine took us back to the clubhouse then we rounded the turn and headed to the back. Number ten, dubbed Hang Ten, was a beautiful par four that from the tee had a magnificent view of the surf beyond the green. It conjured up visions of the 1960’s and Frankie, Annette and Moon Doggie hopping out of their Woodie (a surfer Van, for you millennials), donning wetsuits, and catching a few waves.

As we came over the hill looking down at the green complex, we were greeted by three border collies that took a break from lollygagging in the dunes to pay us a visit. I tried to talk one of them into reading a few putts for me, unfortunately, I did not carry his currency.

The stretch of holes from 13 to 16 is the best. Three wonderful, well-designed, strategic and memorable par-fours, followed-up with the par-5 sixteenth—the number 1 handicap hole. The names of the holes were equally memorable—Black Sheep (the course’s logo), Rifle Range (where Scooter rang the bell with a birdie) Johnny Currie’s Rib (a local Sea Pilot) and Beinn an Oir (Mountain of Gold). Well done, DMK!

We had a gallery on Beinn an Oir, just up on the dune that separated the fairway from the beach and Atlantic. Two old Scotsmen, sitting on their own chairs, enjoying a wee dram. Their black lab and retriever by their sides—they did not think about chasing us on this day, it was time for a nap.

Machrihanish Dunes is wonderful in so many ways. First off, it was a tough, great walk! The course from the tips is just over 7,000 yards and most of the greens-to-next-tee walks are not easy. I was just as physically exhausted as I was mentally. That said, I had that wonderful feeling in my soul. I cannot wait to go back and play it a few times, along with Machrihanish GC. By that time, I am sure the new (planned) course adjacent to Mach Dunes will be well underway, if not finished.

I like David McLay Kidd’s style of design. He is a minimalist and has no pre-conceived notion of par or mix of holes. He simply designs it as he sees it and makes great green complexes. There was a reason that Mike Kaiser put his faith in him to create the first signature course at Bandon.

I cannot help but think that as the course matures and gets more play—especially from those who rate the top courses in the World, that it will inch its way up to the World Top-100 someday.

Why play the Course:

Like its Irish cousin, St. Patrick’s, it is sheer raw links at its best. As I had mentioned, it is a rugged, wonderful walk, with gorgeous dunes and views. Although it seems that the old Scottish purists are not happy with the “crazy, undulating, multi-tiered green complexes,” they are great. Yes, modern, and challenging with many humps and bumps, or buried Volkswagens as we say, but fun to play.

It is well worth the lovely ride south on the long and winding road down to the Mull of Kintyre. And while you are there, stay at my favorite the Ugadale Hotel, and enjoy Machrihanish G.C across the street as well. Machrihanish Village (with nearby Campbeltown) is a joyous, relaxing golf trip in and of itself with (4) courses—soon to be five, with another adjacent to MachDunes—and add-on a ferry ride to Arran and play Shiskine as well.

Cheers,

--Old Tam

My Rating: Ace